Everything goes to that point.
Then you get the fabrics.
Does that shape work with that shape?
Image by Jefferson Chacon
It’s really draping.
I did that so much.
She has these two and a half different Waste costumes where her blue comes back.
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Shed be like, Oh my gosh!
She immediately understands where you’re going.
That part of it is actually a really important part of my process of making.
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Even sort of simple costumes or costumes that you wouldn’t think have breakdown.
They’ve all been washed, they’ve all gone through that process.
It’s notfantasy-fantasy that’s, like, science fiction.
I love the callback to that red jacket in that scene.
Thats the one from Season 2, right?
It was inspired by an Alexander McQueen dress, which is kind of edgy, which is Egwene.
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The print on it is the flame of Tar Valon.
She’s not Elayne.
She’s not a princess.
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She’s a real person who knows what her roots are.
It’s kind of beautiful-ugly.
Then Elayne, as I said, she’s a princess, so her armor is almost more fantasy.
Its probably the most fantasy-style armor.
That’s what’s so great, as well, about having a huge team like I had.
She’s got those two green fabrics weaving around her body because Elayne isn’tjusta princess.
She’s much more than that.
She’s a really complex person.
She’s not in some big princess frock.
She’s in something that has a strength and an energy to it, as well.
Then Nynaeve, how can we approach her costume so that it’s different from the other two?
She has these armored pieces, but I wanted to just do another take, basically, on armor.
Armor traditionally is metal, but it’s also it’s quilted.
Shes a healer, so her costume is going to be yellow.
It still has a real strength.
There’s the big flashback with Morgase, who’s pregnant with Elayne in that scene.
Even just the entrance of the royal family, the queen’s silhouette is so striking.
It feels very Elizabethan, with the big lace collar.
Was that the inspiration behind her big entrance dress when they’re coming into the Hall?
GILHAM: Yes, exactly.
Morgase is not going to just come in on her own.
She’s going to have an entourage.
She’s going to have ladies in waiting, she’s going to have servants.
She’s going to have the soldiers and people carrying the banners.
Everything was done for show.
It was all like, Here they are!
So,her costume is absolutely a big dramatic show of force, showing her power.
The color is Elizabethan.
So, there was the idea of the Elizabethan collar, the Tudor collar.
That’s what that was referencing.
We played around with this shape a lot because it’s quite a big thing.
Olivia [Williams] was very good about saying, It’s fine.
I know it’s a bit heavy, but I can wear it.
It’s kind of her locked into her responsibility and who she is as the Queen.
They were supposed to look like flowers, as well.
We can change this.
No one’s ever printed lace before, so let’s play with that idea.
Everything she does is about her.
It’s about the spectacle and the drama.
He pushed and pushed.
He’s another person that I used the mannequin for to dress.
He was, at one point, going to have a huge collar and a massive train.
I wanted him to look like a bride who had to look like the groom.
OK, What’s the Deal With Moiraine’s Hat?
They’re not expecting this last-minute decision that Rand makes.
I thought it would be nice to have something that wasn’t that, to try something new.
And yes, we tried several different hats.
We had several variations of that made, as well.
In the end, this was the shape that Rosamund liked.
We love the idea that she bartered it for something on the journey.
I did see to it that everybody else had something covering their heads, apart from Rand.
It was a practical thing, as well, but it had to fit into the world.
They all look so dark, heavy metal, a bit gritty.
It’s so fun to see it because we’re never going to get our heroes looking like that.
What was the inspiration behind designing those alternate universe evil looks?
Again, it was responding to their characters.
I dont know if thats the right word, but she’s feisty.
She’s not sexualized.
She looks amazing, but that’s not what she’s interested in.
That’s where that came from.
I wanted everything to be very clean.
Then Elayne has all of these metal feathers.
Again, there’s a sort of lightness and an elegance to it.
Because he would do it, and he would enjoy it.
Then the top piece is a little bit too short.
That was the thought process behind them all.
That’s the way I feel and felt.
It’s a lot of extra work for my team, but I just think it’s an opportunity.
It would be such a shame to just do a half-hearted version, because it just wouldn’t work.
Before the Breaking, everything was so different.
That’s really the point.
Their lines were very long and simple.
That was the idea.
So, what is an Age of Legends lab coat?
It feels authentic, and it feels really clean.
Because I think that’s what we all kind of hope is that our future will be simple.
Things will have been simplified.
There’s always a connection to the cadinsor, the clothing that the warriors wear.
But again, it’s all very elegant.
It’s all very long.
All of the arms are very extended.
He’s got those trousers that are sort of part trousers, part skirt.
They just make him look, from the waist down, really long and column-like.
Serene, I think, is the word.
That whole landscape really does feel very pirate-inspired and lawless.
You don’t know what’s going to happen when you walk down the street.
GILHAM: Every place that they go to, they’re in disguise.
That’s his absolute happy place.
He’s got that big jacket with all the frou-frou bits hanging off thatMatwould have chosen.
Its a nightmare for the standbys, because it kept ripping and having holes in it.
In Tanchico, people show their flesh, they show their skin.
Mat’s doing it, showing off more chest.
Nynaeve istotallyout of her comfort zone to show any parts of her body.
That is just not what she does.
She’s not interested.
So I was like, What can I give her that isn’t just really low cut?
Because she wouldn’t do it.
She just would say no.
Sowe came up with the idea of showing her shoulders, which already is so outside her comfort zone.
It’s so much of herself that she’s showing that she wouldnt normally.
So, it was great fun to do that and to find fabrics.
The fabric that her costume is made of is really out there.
It’s very dramatic, that fabric.
So,we created that fabric and therefore we were able to duplicate it.
There’s definitely some finale looks I want to talk about, including two striking ones for Lanfear.
One is that white silky outfit that she has in Tel’aran’rhiod.
We’ve really seen her this season in the Tel’aran’rhiod moments with Rand in these much softer looks.
That dress does feel like the culmination of her being at her most bared.
But that scene with Rand, it’s in that woodland.
And yes, it’s a wedding dress.
It’s not a wedding dress, but it could be a wedding dress.
It is actually a pair of trousers.
You feel like you could see this human being through it.
So, it was the color, finally getting Lanfear in white in a way that’s unexpected.
But that’s okay.
It’s striking and black, she’s wearing a headpiece and really dark eye makeup.
GILHAM: It’s an exaggeration, that dress and the shoulders.
You could stab yourself on them.
Karen Ferry, who made her costume, used thermoplastic inside that costume, which is rigid.
It’s not just some kind of interfacing that gives something a strength.
It really makes the edges sharp.
I said, Can we include the moon somewhere in her headdress?
It looked uneven, the finished shape, even though the shape is very solid, rigid.
How can I get my revenge?
The clothing all looks very distressed across the board.
The palette is very consistent.
Even the Alcair Dal scene, everybody’s got to come and make a statement.
He was talking to me about the practicality of carrying all the weapons and everything.
Where am I going to get the inspiration from that?
I wanted it to be considered, to have an actual style.
Because we’re all influenced by the places that we live in.
We dress according to the climate and so on, and they travel.
Also, in the Golden Bowl scene, you better see the Shaido as separate from the Taardad.
you should probably see that they are two clans clearly, even though they are wearing similar shapes.
So, that was the idea.
They weave their clothing like the contours, like lands moving.
Then we played with a couple of ideas for other clans.
My whole point aboutThe Wheel of Timeis that every character matters.
When you have a really good crowd team, who are addressing people, every person is a character.
It doesn’t matter how lowly they are or how high they are, they’re all a character.
They are absolutely so much a part of making it feel really real.
And I went, What?!
[Laughs] No, you didnt say that.
It was like, Whoa!
I said to Rob, Come on, we’ve got to make something really dramatic.
What can we make that’s like some kind of jeweled collar, but really aggressive looking?
There are also constraints with that, obviously.
It’s also because it’s going to look amazing in that landscape.
That color looks so beautiful against the sand and against the rocks.
Likewise, the fabric that Lanfears dress is made of was made in Switzerland.
It’s very strong.
It’s like armor made fabric.
She can’t just be in a beautiful blue dress.
So we came up with this idea.I found these references to armor that had semi-disintegrated from museums.
I can’t remember what culture it’s from, unfortunately.
I need to find that out.
It’s also a beautiful thing, as well.
It’s part of Moiraines elegance and style.
Again, I showed this to Rob, whos done all the amazing leather pieces.
So I was like, Rafe, what is Moiraines rationale?
What is the thing that she has written on her tombstone, written on her heart?
Then more of the text is layered on top and layered on top and layered on top.
Within that armor is her belief in everything.
That armor is beautiful, but its also so much more than that.
GILHAM: Thats such a good question.
Sometimes you do work on things where you’re like, Oh my god, that was so complicated.
I just would never want to see that thing again.
I love the way that breakdown happened.
I am such a fan of breakdown.
We did make a version of it for the fire, but nevertheless… Happiest to be rid of?
I loved doing them all!
All episodes ofThe Wheel of Timeare available to stream on Prime Video.
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